Climbing Prusik Peak in the Enchantements

An adventurous climb in the Cascades of the state of Washington.

The Enchantments is a gorgeous Alpine wilderness are in the region of Leavenworth in the state of Washington.

After a moderately early start at the eight-mile campground, we took the direction of the East trail head. We arrived the day before late and were surprised by the pretty warm weather.

They were many cars at the parking but not many people. This is also the end of the popular Enchantment loop where trekkers get shuttled on the other bound.

After crossing the Icicle river, we started with a step accent towards Snow Creek. Then an imposing view on Snow Creek wall and it supposedly best 5.9 in the area: Outer Space.

The second bridge crossing marked the mid way, also the start of a step uphill. We arrive at the first lake. Then a second steep section and landing at the beginning of Snow Lake. There is a little fun dam crossing (i.e. freeze your feet) and the reward of the fist views on the peaks of the core Enchantments.

While going along all the lake, we meet the first of the many mountain goats (not sheep, much bigger, beware for your food)! We find a secluded spots at the very end, just before the trails goes up.

It is still not midday. We go for 2 miles up towards Vivian Lake to at least scope the approach to West Prusik Peak (5.7, but mostly less) and climb it if we feel we have enough buffer. The landscape is mesmerizing, with snow, peaks, colors. The weather is holding up, and after a bit of route finding off trail we roll towards the base of the climb.

Surprisingly, when we also arrive at the same time as a party of 5 climbers, but friendly, and we can even start first.

The climb is beautiful, and much easier than expected. Two mini traverses, a slab corner face, a small chimney after a little more committing section with a semi-mantle. I rarely saw landscapes that epic, it is borderline difficult to believe my eyes sometimes, reminiscence even of Iceland for example. After rappelling (5) we land on the base of the North face. There is a bit of snow sometimes tricky not to slide down but nothing out of control. We do not rush it and we are back on the South side.

Happy (without saying), and we make it back down to Snow Lake even sunset after this full day!

Next day we make it back up at the base, on the South side for Becky-Davis route (5.9), which will be quite another story.

We know the route to the base and only take the strict necessary and hang the rest on a tree.

The 5.8 off-width chimney is quickly disregarded (not for this time..) for the left side start. We are already on another route and it is also looks easier than it is with a some awkward squeeze moves, but still fun and we make it with no worries. According to the topo we are supposed to traverse back right immediately to join back the top of the chimney but it feels impossible.

Start of the route finding challenge! We go up straight on more easy terrain, traverse right on a large ledge. There is a nice exposure on the top of the chimney, followed by tricky route finding, up and down-climbs on sketchy dead-ends.

Then the start of an awkward long section, with committing roofs and tight squeezes, not easy to go through (should have gone East more). Finally a long runout to a ledge and a small tree.

We traverse the 5.5 ledge, go up to another one and continue instead of going up. We “enjoy” some ~5.10, very hard shallow fingers with no feet (sketchy, even if we aid trough most of it).

Then a “thought provoking” mini roof section, pretty exposed, combined to a slick traverse to a double crack, steep (committed after putting 3 pieces). The 90 degree angle turn (non extended) creates a massive rope drag, but I manage to finish the crack and land on a flat barren ledge.

Sweet ledge but hard to belay from. We recompose, time is running out a bit and there are no many option. A slab wall with thankfully a few knobs when looking right, then a right or left option.

After debating, as there is no mention of a hole in the rock we go right, for a eerie heady traverse, landing on a wobbly ledge, composed of stacked rocks. Welcomed by a finger crack that disappears and a slide down to nothing. Bit too much, I leave 2 cams and call it to go back.

Eric leads through the hole. There is a 5.8 committing exposed finger move, but looks like it is easing up after. After a recommendation to doubling the pieces he goes for it and make it to the summit! Great top out and views, what a climb, just in time as the the sun starts setting. 2 rappels to the last 3 rappels we did the day before, and we are back to our backpack, still nicely hanging with no mountain goat damage!

There is a bit off moon and it id 70% dark only at this time of the year, so technically we did no use lamps, which makes it only a semi -epic!

The core Enchantments was an amazing trek and climb, at the perfect right time of the year, with snow but somehow tshirt weather. We made it through challenging route finding, some non expected 5.9/10, but kept out composure and learn a lot!

Similar to Middle Cathedral and Snake Dike combined. There is a before and after Prusik Peak. Fantastic adventure!